Why Parc Montsouris supercedes the other parcs and jardins in Paris

Among the several reasons why Paris is so great is its share of gardens and parks throughout the city.  The two most famous ones are the obvious Jardin des Tuileries and Jardin du Luxembourg.  And without a doubt those are famous for really good reasons.  Out of the 2, I especially enjoy the Jardin du Luxembourg.  There is nothing better than sitting on the bench in front of the water fountain to people watch and just enjoy...life I guess!
However, there are many other equally beautiful parks around Paris such as the Parc Butte Chaumont as well as Parc de la Villette in the 19th arrondissement.

My favorite, however, is the Parc Montsouris located in the 14th arrondissement by Cite Universitaire.  I would've never known about this magnificent place if I hadn't lived right by it.  Check out the scene from the 14th district in the movie "Paris, je t'aime" just to get a feel! 
The park offers a non-toursity scene. 
There are always locals taking a few laps around the parks while walking their dogs and chatting up a few lines with each other.

I go to the park several times a week in the morning to jog.  Along my jog, there is always the man walking his hairy and messy dog, carrying the same plastic bag from a local used bookstore.  Then there is an upbeat lady around 60 years old that does her half walk half jog everyday.  There's also a short older Asian jogger who is always happy and upbeat.  Every now and then a group of fireman will arrive in their firetruck and do a few laps around the park, a site that I particularly don't mind given they do wear their short shorts!
There's a beautiful lake on the bottom corner with black and white swans, ducks, and all sorts of avian creatures.  In the winter when the temperatures are low enough, the lake freezes over into a postcard like scenery.  In the spring time you get to see the baby ducks following their mother around.

On weekends parents bring along their young ones to the park where they can enjoy rides, have a crepe, ride ponies, or go to a puppet show at a small theatre inside the park.

The jardin du Luxembourg prohibits visitors to sit on any of the grassy areas; and this rule is heavily enforced by annoying park guards blowing their whisles at you.  At Montsouris however, people are allowed to freely sit and picnic on many of the grassy hills it has to offer.  On a beautiful sunny evening, it is the perfect place to picnic, to sit and chat, have a drink, or simply just to read.  

Oh and another perk, the park has... yes!  Free toilets, while others will charge you up to 50 cents!

My thoughts on Iceland

Like many, growing up I had known practically nothing about the country of Iceland.  The only memory I recall was learning in school, "why is Iceland called Iceland?"  answer: because the settlers liked it there so much that they called it Iceland, and the giant mass of glacial land next door Greenland so that people will think Greenland is better and move there instead.
Other than that I never gave the country much thought.

Fast forward a decade or so, I met my first and only Icelandic friend while attending graduate school at the University of Maryland.  I, along with my fellow classmates were very curious to meet someone from this Nordic country and bombarded him with odd questions the first few weeks.  Through this friendship, I for the first time wanted to visit Iceland, but I never really thought that would be possible in the near future.

Since I am currently based in Paris for a while, it is only a 2 hour plane ride away from Iceland.  And with bargain airlines like Icelandic Express, I took my opportunity.

June is an interesting time to go to Iceland.  The sun pretty much never sets; while it's setting, it's also getting ready to rise again.  On the car ride into the city, I remember being amazed by the formations of the cloud.  Maybe it's because there are hardly any trees around, but I have never seen clouds like that before. 

I have had many "first times" in Iceland.  Below are some thoughts and interesting facts.

1. Q. What do you do when you get lost in a forest in Iceland? A. stand up!
2. Iceland only has one national highway... highway number 1 that circles around the island with one lane in each direction.
3. The water quality of this country is probably the best in the world; you're an idiot if you're buying bottled water there.
   

    
4. Because of its many glaciers, Iceland has many waterfalls.  In the summer time they are the perfect sight at around 10pm.
   
    
5. The Blue Lagoon was probably the biggest disappointment.  It's pretty no doubt, but it's become too commercialized and hyped, not to mention the expensive entrance AND transportation fee.
   
    
6. It's best to travel in Iceland by renting a car.  There is no train system, and the buses have very limited schedules and high ticket prices.
7. Sadly, only low percentage alcoholic drinks can be sold in supermarkets, the rest has to be purchased from a state owned store, where they are heavily taxed (and I thought Utah was bad!).
8. Which is why at the duty free store in the airport, Icelanders were literally stocking up big time on their alcohol.  I even asked, is it really that much cheaper?  Answer: yes and almost by half!
9. There are a lot of sheep in Iceland.  And they roam everywhere (careful when driving on the highway) eating fresh grass and breath in fresh air!  Because of this, they taste very very yummy.
10. Horses are another common sight while driving on the highway.  And these are a breed specific only to Iceland.
11. Despite their "icy" look, Icelanders are actually very nice and humorous.
12. Some food specialities:

• Skyr, a thick yogurt like dairy product.  I was addicted!
• Dried fish
• Smoked fish (including smoked whale)
• 
• lots and lots of lamb (smoked, roasted, liver, testicles, hot dogs, its head, you name it!)
• 
• Type of flat bread made with rye flour, very good with smoked lamb meat or lamb pate
• Fermented shark meat (which I just realized that I brought a packet back with me but haven't yet tried it)
• Icelandic Schnapps a.k.a. black death.  Apparently this is what you wash down fermented shark with.

First time experiences:

• Eating whale meat.  People have asked me what it tastes like, but it's really hard to describe.  It's probably like an in between of tuna and good lean red meat.
• hitch-hiking: when the bus driver informed me that my connection bus would arrive in 3 hours, I decided to take my chances in one of the safest countries in the world.  A semi-truck transporting trash picked me up!
• Seeing a dead whale (our guide insisted on showing this to us on our trip to Snaefellsness.
• 
• Holding a 2 month old baby, yes I have never ever held a baby that small!
• 
• Going to bed when it's still light outside, trust me it's not easy.

Iceland is definitely worth another trip back!  This small country has much more to offer than what I have seen!

Entertaining meal at "Le Jeu de Quilles"

I rarely dine out at night.  Mainly because it's more expensive and usually it's a 2 to 3 hour ordeal, so by the time I get home it's about midnight.  However, when I have a friend in town, I always see it as an opportunity to do some fine dining and also to show a visitor a different side of the dining scene in Paris.

The area of Mouton Duvernet in the 14th district of Paris might not be well known, however, this neighborhood is filled with hidden jewels of restaurants, wine shops, and speciality shops.
I was taking a stroll in the area once and passed by the restaurant.  I have heard many great things and reviews about this small bistro, which probably sits only about 20 people.  The restaurant gets its meat from the famous butcher next door "Hugo Desnoyer" known as one of the best butcher shops in Paris.  It sources its beef from the region of Limousin of superb quality (yes meaning grass fed and able to roam around in an open area!)   It was about 7pm (way before dinner hour in France), outside "le jeu de quilles" the chefs and servers were chatting and drinking wine.  I went into make a reservation, and the staff was extremely friendly.  I was excited for my dinner already!

Friday night came, we went in, and the server immediately recognized me with a big smile.  The restaurant had an open kitchen, which you could see all the activities of the chefs, which is always a big enjoyment for me.  There was some lively music playing in the background, and the whole kitchen seemed like a party. 

I started off by asking for a recommendation of red wine, the server told me he'll bring me something that I will like, and I will have to guess what it is.  I ended up guessing wrong, but it was a glass of Morgan, from the Beaujolais Region.  I usually don't like Beaujolais wine, but this one was of quality.

The a la carte menu was reasonably priced.  For the appetizer, I ordered a marinated fish, tartare style.  While my friend opted for the poached White Asparagus with a cream sauce and pancetta.  The fish was simply marinated in olive oil and vinegar served with some warm green onions on top, it was divine.  I ordered the veal carpaccio as the main course.  Normally I don't go for meat when there is a fish option on the menu, but this place is known for their meat, and I know the quality is top!  Meagan ordered their famous Limousin steak (which she was told she doesn't get to decide how it's cooked.) 



Veal Carpaccio

The veal carpaccio can only be described as an orgasm in my mouth.  It was served with shaved Parmesan cheese, olive oil, and salad.  It was absolutely out of this world.  I don't think I have ever tasted something that just simply melts in your mouth like it belonged there.  I wished the plate would never end.  Meagan's steak was also top-notched, she actually said this might've been the best steak she's ever eaten.  These two dishes are the perfect examples of good, fresh, and quality ingredients.  It was simply prepared.  The steak didn't need to be marinated, only some simple sea salt and pepper was enough to let you take in the true taste of the meat.

When I finished my glass of wine, the server asked me if I wanted another one.  I made a joke and asked him if he was going to offer it to me.   And sure enough, I received a free glass of wine, of quality of course. 

After seeing what the couple next to us had for dessert, we simply couldn't say no.  We shared a chocolate "soup" topped with a pistachio macarron.  Ok, is it possible to have 2 orgasms in your mouth within 2 hours?  The chocolate soup was warm, and not overly sweet.  The macarron gave it the perfect finish.

Dinner at le jeu de quilles was not only just an unforgettable gastronomically experience, it was a taste of a real Parisian bistro with an amicable touch.




The server that was everyone's best friend

Jeu de Quilles45, rue Boulard, 75014
01 53 90 76 22. Open only Wed–Sat, lunch and dinner.



What I miss the most about the US of A

After being away from the American style for more or less two years, there are certain things that I really crave and miss.  Yes I am in France, the land of some of the best cuisine, culture, history, etc. in the world; and I am defnitely taking advantage of all that!  Yet, you know there are just the little things such as....

• Trader Joe's, 'nough said!
• REI, sorry but Decathlon is just not the same... not even close!
• People who know what a Chaco tan or TEVA tan is.
• Iced tea, I guess that's an American thing?
• Diner style breakfast such as pancakes (blueberries preferred), eggs, and some nice home fries.
• Veggie Burgers, actually any type of burgers in general, that's one thing the French can't do right!
• Local farmer's markets.
• Coffeeshops, I know Paris is famous for these, but I miss chill coffee places in the US where you can buy a huge cup of joe, and just sit and read for the entire day.
• Microbreweries: especially ones in Utah and Colorado!
• Happy hours!!  Sorry Parisian Cafe, but 5 Euros for a beer does not equal happy hour.
• Pot-lucks!!
• Camping and grilling
• 

   
• Thanksgiving, my favorite Holiday!
• 
• oh and of course MY AWESOME FRIENDS!
• 

Some of my favorite wine shops in Paris

I LOVE WINE.  I don't think I can put any more meaning into those 3 words!  And I am currently residing in the best place in the world for wine, France.  Nothing excites me more than going to a local neighborhood wine shop, even if I'm just browsing.  The regions, the grape varieties, the cepages, etc. The list is endless.  Paris is full of "cave a vins" which are specialized wine shops.  What I like about these stores rather than buying wine at the super market is that each shop usually stocks wines from specific producers.  Hence, every shop will generally have wines from very specific wines from small producers that you won't find else where.  Also, wine owners or sommeliers usually will give you excellent advice.  You can tell them what type of wine you're looking for, what kind of food you want to pair it with, along with the price range, and they will point out a few bottles for you.



Learning about wine is a challenge in itself.  There is just endless amount of information.  The best way to learn, of course, is to taste the wine.  Many fancy wine stores and restaurants will often have "cours des degustations", wine tasting courses.  However, these usually cost more than 80 Euros, and is way out of my budget.  Luckily, there are many wine shops in Paris that hold free tastings.  Some have them every Saturday, others do them once every so often.    But here are some that I frequent fairly often.

1. Les Caves de Taillevent
199 Rue du Faubourg Saint Honore, 75008 Paris
http://www.cavestaillevent.com/

Owned by the same people as the Michelin-starred restaurant "Le Taillevent" this wine store stocks some of the most prestigious wines from all over France.  Apparently the basement houses more than 150,000 bottles in it shop, which you would never know just by being inside the shop. 
Les Caves de Taillevent has something for you to taste every single day.  However, every Saturday they usually select 3 or 4 wines based on a specific theme, whether it's the grape, region, or one time it was "wine from the mountains."  I go so often now that all the sommeliers know me.  And even though I don't buy a lot of wines these (for obviously budget reasons!), they are still very friendly and willing to answer any questions that I have. 
This prestigious wine shop also has their own marque, the "Collections Taillevent" where they partner with 40 proprieters and chateaux in France.  They hold two sales every year, one in March and the other in September where a selection of wine is 20% off.  But better get there quick as the stock runs out fast!

2. Le Vin en Tête
Cave St. Georges
48 rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, 75009
Cave St. Placide
53 rue Saint Placide, 75006
Cave Batignolles
30 rue des Batignolles, 75017
http://levinentete.fr/

This friendly wine shop has 3 stores in Paris.  They supply many organic and natural wines.  The sommeliers there are always friendly and gives excellent advice.  They always have one or two bottles open for wine shoppers to taste.  Often they will hold tastings directly with the vignerons.  These are great opportunities to learn about wine from the people who produce them!  Tastings are usually Friday evenings and Saturday at the St. George store.  But it depends, I would say check their website for the latest tastings, however, it hasn't been updated recently.  Their wine is a little bit on the pricier side.

3. La Dernière Goutte
6 rue Bourbon le Chateau, 75006
http://ladernieregoutte.net/

This small wine shop in the St. Germain des Pres neighborhood is popular among English speakers, as the owner is Anglophone himself.  However don't let that deter you from going.  This shop stocks wines mainly from small producers of excellent quality.  Every Friday night from 17h30 to 19h30, they hold an informal "Happy Hour" where you get to taste a few wines along with some cheese.  On Saturdays they also hold an all day tasting.  Always fun and lively!

4. Le Cellier des Marchés
24, rue Mouton Duvernet 75014
http://www.cellierdesmarches.com/index.html

This is fast becoming probably my favorite wine shop in Paris.  One of the reasons being it's rather close to me.  They also stock wines from small producers across France.  I have rarely found wines in this stores else where.  The store attendant there is very knowledgeable and friendly, he always takes his time explaining each wine to me; and so far he has not recommended a bad wine to me.  The prices are very reasonable.  Usually they have 1 or 2 things to taste on Saturdays, except for when the truck shipment doesn't show up....

5. Les Caves de la Nation
55 avenue Philippe Auguste 75011
No website

I put down this wine store, because it is about 2 steps away from my office.  They stock some decent wines.  From time to time, one of my co-workers will go there and buy a bottle to drink at the park when the weather is nice.  The guy that works there is also very cute :)

6. Caves Auges
116 blvd Haussmann, 75008
http://www.cavesauge.com/

One of Paris' oldest wine shops.  Usually from March to June, they will host a grand monthly tasting based on a region in France.  The shop is worth going to just for browsing as their collection is quite overwhelming.  I do have to say the service isn't the greatest.

Saturday tasting at Cave Auges

Other wine stores that I like

La Cave des Papilles
35 rue Daguerre, 75014
http://www.lacavedespapilles.com/La_Cave_des_Papilles/La_Cave.html

La Cave des Martyrs
39 rue des Martyrs 75009

La Cave des Abbessess
43 rue des Abbesses, 75018

La Cave du Père Lachaise
3 Avenue Gambetta 75020
http://www.lacaveduperelachaise.com/

A few of my favorite things about Turkey!

In no particular order

1. Ayran: salty yogurt drink that is the perfect combination to a kebab, simit, or pretty much everything!

2. Self-Service restaurants: pick from an array of yummy food, and cheap!

3. Mosques: so beautiful!


4. That I was able to get from one continent to another in a 20 min. ferry ride.

5. Tea: people drank tea all the time!  I love the glassware and the trays they use.

6. Fresh squeezed juices: from orange, grapefruit, carrot, promegrenate, apple, etc. you name it, and all for less than one euro!
7. Beautiful coasts

8. Amazing historical sites like Epheus (the only one I got to see, there are many more of course!)

9. Excellent bus and ferry system

10. Turkish Coffee, it's totally worth the extra time to make it!

11. Dried fruits and dried chickpeas

Free Museum days in Paris, a few of my favorites

I love museums, and fortunately for me, I currently live in a city with some of the best museums in the world.  Other than the big names of the Louvre, Centre Pompidou, and Musee D'Orsay, there are many lesser known ones that are equally worth going to. 
Since I am no longer in the "under 26" age group, where entries to many museums are free, and since I am also too cheap to pay, I take advantage of the Free museum days.

One of my newly discovered place is the "Jeu de Paume".  It's a gallery right next to the Jardin des Tuileries that holds photography exhibitions that changes every few months.  It consists of three levels, usually with a different exhibition on each level.  They recently just concluded an excellent and compelling exhibition on the works of the now jailed Chinese activist/photographer Ai Wei Wei. 

Free when?

Only for studetns and those under 26 ! The last Tuesday of every month from 17h to 21h.  I would advise going before 19h to avoid a long line.
http://www.jeudepaume.org/

Another place that I've frequented is the Maison Europeene de la Photographie. It is located in a side-street near the metro "St. Paul".  It houses collections of contemporary photographic art as well as temporary photography exhibitions that changes frequently.  It's a must go for any photography or contemporary art fans!

Free when?

Every Wednesday evening from 17h to 20h.
http://www.mep-fr.org/us/default.htm

Musee des arts et Metiers has a collection of "stuff" and objects from science, engineering, transportation, communication, energy, etc.  They are displayed in a chronological order.  The museum is fun for kids and especially science geeks!

Free when?

The first Sunday of every month, and every Thursday from 18h to 21h.
http://www.arts-et-metiers.net/musee.php?P=228

The following is a list of museums that are free the First Sunday of every month (courtesy of Parisinfo.com)

Musée national d'art moderne - Centre Pompidou – 4^th

Musée de l'Assistance Publique - Hôpitaux de Paris – 5^th

Musée national des Arts asiatiques Guimet – 16^th

Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature – 3^th

Musée national Eugène Delacroix – 6^th

Musée Gustave Moreau - 9^th

Musée national Ernest Hebert

Musée national Jean-Jacques Henner – 17^th

Musée du Louvre – 1^st

Musée national du Moyen Âge - Thermes de Cluny – 5^th

Musée national de l'Orangerie – 1^st

Musée d'Orsay – 7^th

Musée national Picasso – 3^rd

Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine – 16^th

Cité nationale de l’histoire de l’immigration – 12^th

Musée du Quai Branly – 7^th

Musée Rodin – 7^th